Thursday 29 March 2012

Pamukkale, Denizli Province, Turkey





The bus from Nevsehir (Cappadocia) to Denizli (Pamukkale) I read takes 9 hours yet is more like 10 -12 hours. We arrived early in Denizli and checked into our hostel which wasn’t far out of town and was more of a resort than a hostel (also we seemed to be the only guests there). The walk up to Pamukkale takes us through the town again (but this time without backpacks) so we stopped to get water and something to eat before heading up for our first full view of the world heritage site that is Pamukkale. The first thing we noticed was just how unimpressive it appears from far away; looking like a small hill that is still shaking off the winter snow, cold and uninviting and far away from the pictures we had seen where people play in white pools of blue water like a lagoon. We walk to a large pond which is placed in view of the travertine and sit for a while trying to find the images of Pamukkale which we were expecting. People in large numbers move up and down the travertines and we find the entrance which we will start from tomorrow. 

The next day we prepare for the day ahead (swimming shorts, money, camera, food and drink) and head up to the entrance (around TL 20 per person) you are not allowed to wear any footwear while walking up the travertine’s (it would cause damage to it). The image of Pamukkale hits you right away; you walk through the clouded blue pools and across the glowing white travertine which gently ripples down water. Larger pools of water sit at the side near to the walls like shallow hot tubs over which the limestone pours over the rocks like snow. At the side is a narrow stream on the edge where you can sit and admire the view. We entered one of the springs and covered ourselves in the claylike mud (I guess calcium?) at the bottom which everybody seemed to be doing. Lots of tourists come here and you can hear just about every language under the sun while making your way to the top. The ground has solid ridges all around so the walk to the top becomes more of a cautious limp without shoes but this doesn’t matter as what you see all around you is far too interesting to worry about your feet, looking like a glacier built for a Hollywood movie the trail leads up to the vast area of Hierapolis (Roman ruins). 

 
When you enter Hierapolis the first thing to hit is the peaceful calm after the madness of the terraces of Pamukkale. As you wonder through to see the theatre, the Apollo temple and the necropolis; the calmness of it all allows for a pleasant experience exploring the ruins. Little gardens are along the way where you can sit and look out to the landscapes beyond. The sacred thermal pool (which is filled with ancient artefacts and very beautiful) charges extra but only if you want to swim, you can sit by the pool for free (little restaurants and shops are inside the pool area).

The main highlight of Hierapolis for me was to enter the Roman Theatre which is very well preserved and offers you the chance to sit and take in the view without distraction from the guided tours.
After exploring around Hierapolis we chose to walk down the terraces to the exit (you can exit at different points) the walk down was a more pleasant experience than going up, less people where there as the sun came down and the whites of the terraces cast shadows.

 
 

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